Lizard Island

We are anchored off of Lizard Island and the half moon beach beacons. It's time to leave our Spirit of Freedom dive boat and we divide into two groups, board the Zodiacs and motor to shore. It is a wet landing and we step barefoot from the boat into the water and wade a few steps to shore. Several years back, friends of ours spent a week camping on Lizard Island. They were flown in with all their supplies and enjoyed an idillic stay, snorkeling, hiking and relaxing. There is also a resort on the island where all inclusive prices start at $1500 per day per couple. The campers are not allowed on the resort premises and we will not trespass on resort property today.

As wonderful as the diving was, the equipment was cumbersome and claustrophobic and I enjoy the freedom of walking barefoot along the beach, fine white sand crunching between my toes. The morning is sunny and warm and we take tourist photos beside the Lizard Island Park sign and then follow Mossy inland along the boardwalk. The boardwalk meanders through the mangroves, the trees supported by spider like roots vanishing into sludgy brackish water. All is lush and quiet except for bird songs. We leave the mangroves and take an steep hike up to a view point stopping along the way to watch for lizards and to dine on lemon ants. Mossy demonstrates the technique and asks who would like to try one? Surprisingly, all the Japanese women are quick to volunteer and each in turn bites into the fat torso of an ant. John, not to be outdone, also bites off the torso to taste the lemony "nectar." I am not inclined to try this since I feel empathy for the ants and cannot imagine biting a living something in half. Everyone who eat an ant make a sour face and confers that the taste is bitter, if not lemony. The view from the top overlooks the resort and the bay with a few yachts anchored offshore.

We walk back down towards the beach in the direction of the airstrip. It is late morning and the day is heating up and we are lucky to see one of the Monitor Lizards that this island is known for. It is nearly three feet long and just off to the side of the trail. We are told that these lizards carry a bacteria in their saliva similar to that of the Komodo dragon and that if bitten, one must seek treatment or risk serious infection. John and I doubt the truth of this information and just want to catch and cuddle one.

We wait for our plane in the shady open air "terminal" alongside the airstrip. 30 minutes later, two small planes land, carrying the 20 passengers that will board the Spirit of Freedom for the next leg of it's dive journey. John and I have been advised to sit on the right hand side of the plane and we are second in line to board. The plane will accommodate 12, but there are only 8 of us on board and John and I find seats in the second row on the right side of the plane. The return flight takes two hours and we fly low along the barrier reef. The aerial view is breathtaking; intoxicating turquoise water so transparent and clear that one can see the intricate patterns of the coral below the surface. Where the reef is shallow, ribbons of waves break and tiny islands dot the ocean scape. John is exhausted and his eyes close in spite of the beauty below. I lean over him, absorbing the view and taking many jiggly photos.