Trolls, Ogres and Ston - Dalmatian Coast

Tuesday, July 12th, Split, Trogir and Ston

By 8:15 A.M. we are sipping cappuccinos at the local café bar adjoining the farmer’s market. The coffees cost 21 kunas which is just under a dollar each. Art walks up to a market bakery and brings back three sandwiches, two salami and cheese and one ham and cheese that we eat with our coffee. It is already hot as we cross through the market to the waterfront and wait in line for the 9:15 ferry to Trogir. We buy the 24 Kuna tickets each as we board the ferry and settle into our seats for the hour ride to Trogir.

Ferry to Trogir

Morning market in Split

We are amused by the town's name of Trogir and I anticipate seeing both trolls and ogres in this medieval walled city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After disembarking the ferry we cross over the bridge to the medieval Venetian style walled city. After strolling around the perimeter of the walled city we enter the old town through the back and wander the maze of narrow stone streets paved with an ivory colored travertine limestone, polished smooth by centuries of foot traffic.

Trogir Waterfront

Trogir Castle

Fortress guard tower

The temperature is in the high 90’s but gratefully, it is ten degrees cooler within the stone walls. Nevertheless, all three of us are somewhat lethargic either from the heat or the pace that we have been on for the past many days. We find a café in the center of the town and sit for drinks. Art orders an aperol spritzer, John a gin and tonic and I order a local prosecco which is basically a sherry over ice. Two rounds of drinks lifts our spirits briefly and we walk on to visit the village cathedral.

Are we having fun yet? Tired tourist in Trogir

Art and John climb to the bell tower but the day is sweltering and simply don’t have the leg power to make the climb and sit in the relative cool of the shaded stone entrance and wait for then to descend.

Trogir Cathedral

Lion guardians, Trogir Cathedral

After their climb we wander the small town in search of lunch and enjoy a surprisingly good meal in a shaded café. Since arriving in Italy and throughout Croatia, we have learned that when you order chicken or fish, that all you will get is the main entrée. If you want potatoes, salad or vegetables, you must order them separately. Today’s lunch comes with all the accompaniments and although the service is painfully slow, the hard working waiter lets us know that we are not forgotten and that lunch is worth waiting for.

By 2:15, we are in line for the return ferry to Split. The ferry leaves promptly at 2:30 and I doze on the hour return trip.  We drink afternoon Cappuccinos at the market before heading to our car, safely parked inside the gates of our hotel apartment and begin the drive to Dubrovnik.

Rivera Drive along the Adriatic Sea - Split to Ston

The traffic is terrible as we navigate our way out of Split and search for the coastal road leading South to Dubrovnik. Once out of sprawling Split, the traffic eases and the late afternoon drive along the coast is breathtakingly beautiful. Art drives for the first two hours; the road winding past one picturesque beac cove after another. Families swim in the cordoned off sections of each “resort,” and many of the beaches have elaborate inflatable floating waterslides and play structures. There are countless “apartments” for rent along this “Rivera” stretch of the Adriatic Sea. Eventually the road winds higher and the resorts thin and we look down on sparkling aqua jeweled coves far below. This single lane road winds precariously along the cliff side and the guard rail doesn’t look all that sturdy so we drive mindfully and hope that no one chooses to pass on a blind curve and meet us head on. This stretch of road is as breathtaking as our California Big-sur Coastline or the Amalfi Coast that we toured just last week. At one of the many view points, Art asks me to drive and even though it’s been many years since I’ve driven a stick shift, I soon have the hang of it and thoroughly enjoy being at the wheel.

Oyster beds of Mali-Ston

Cliff faces on the drive to Ston

Our plans are to stay the night in Mali Ston, recommended to Art by Robert at the Split Tourist Information office as the place to eat oysters. We see the oyster beds in the inlets below and arrive at the picturesque village of Mali Ston at 7:30 P.M. There are two upscale restaurants with outdoor tables and Art examines the menu while I walk to find a hotel. There is only one hotel in town and they have just one expensive junior suite remaining so we climb back into the car and drive another half mile to Ston. After Art and John figure out how to pay for parking, we walk into the tiny stone village and ask about accommodations.

Stan's ancient castle wall

Street in Ston

The first private accommodations we ask about is fully booked but the helpful young woman makes a call on her cell phone, points to a restaurant on a narrow side street and within minutes the waiter escorts us to an upstairs apartment just steps away. We enter an immaculate two bedroom apartment with an efficiency kitchen and when Art asks the price we try not to laugh with relief. It is only 55 Euros for the night or about $65.00. We stow our minimal luggage and return to the restaurant where Art and John order fresh oysters and we share an elaborate fresh fish platter with piles of mussels and shrimp. The food is affordable and delicious and we share two bottles of wine before climbing the stairs to our apartment and collapsing into bed.

We are happy tourists tonight! Seafood dinner in Ston

A delicious dinner: oysters & mussels