La Paz to Loreto

Friday, May 19th - La Paz to Loreto

Morning along the La Paz Malecon

Pearl Monument, La Paz

In spite of our ‘alarming’ and interrupted night’s sleep, I feel rested and look forward to our long drive to Loreto. We are showered, dressed and walking the malecon by 7:30 A.M. but the cafes won’t open until 8:00 A.M. At 8:00 a.m. we choose the only open cafe and are soon sipping on our respective cappuccino and espresso and sharing a vegetable omelet.  Although both La Paz and Loreto are on the Sea of Cortez, the only highway connecting the two winds inland and north through Ciudad Constitution and Ciudad Insurgents. It’s a long haul and we make a lunch stop in Ciudad insurgents, fill up with gas and continue onward. Having heard that there is considerable military and police presence there, Art is happy to be through these two cities without incident. The two lane highway winds back through the high desert and pops out on the dramatic coastline just below Loreto. The view is stunning with Islands floating offshore in the brilliant blue Sea of Cortez. 

View Point - Sea of Cortez

It is not quite 3:00 p.m. when we near Loreto and we have time to visit the San Xavier Mission, 35 kilometers into the rugged mountains above Loreto. We stop at view points along the winding mountain road and an hour later, arrive at the picturesque oasis village of San Xavier and visit the beautiful stone mission, founded in 1699. 

San Xavier Mission

Alter, San Xavier Mission

Marty, San Xavier Mission

The single street of the village is paved with cobblestones; there are two or three restaurants, a simple guest house and flowers bloom in every garden.  After visiting the mission, we drive a few back roads behind the village, ford a trickle of a creek and get a sense of the place. 

Back Roads behind San Xavier Mission

Because our return road trip is off season and our schedule is flexible so we have not made advanced hotel reservations along the way. I drive us into the heart of Loreto; Art pops out and inquires about rates and availability at a hotel a block from the Loreto mission; $40 for the night. Before committing we decide to see if La Damiana Inn has availability, which they do, and we pay the ‘exorbitant’  price of $50 for a darling two room guest cottage in their courtyard garden. There are inviting hammocks, wrought iron tables, and an outdoor kitchen with coffee and a jug of hibiscus tea for the guests. We made reservations here for January of 2017 and stayed in a two bedroom upstairs room on our road trip down with John and Will. The Inn was full then but tonight, only one other couple is booked here. 

Our La Damiana Casita

Our La Damiana Casita

Shared Kitchen, La Damiana Inn, Loreto

After checking e-mail, Art and I wander out to the Zocalo, just steps away from La Damiana Inn and begin our search for dinner. We wander the three blocks down to the water and stroll along the quiet waterfront. The early evening light casts a golden glow on the street and the Sea of Cortez reflects a steely blue. We choose a corner restaurant and have a quiet but decent dinner. Our margaritas are a far cry from the strong ones at Zac's that are made with fresh lime and Controy, (the Mexican version of the French liquor, Cointreau,) and in my case jalapeños, but my fresh fish and sautéed vegetables and Art’s seafood pasta are both good.