Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Way Out Back Safari - Day 3; Watarrka to Alice Springs






We have the luxury of sleeping in until 7:00. The coffee is passable and while the men eat cold cereal and toast; Elizabeth wraps leftover chicken and veggies in foil and places the packets in the fire. She and I enjoy these leftovers for breakfast and are well fortified for our climb up through Watarrka, (Kings Canyon.)


The King Canyon trek is 7 kilometers and the initial climb is termed “heart attack hill.” I make the climb easily with a slow and steady pace. The rain has cleared during the night and the morning is sunny and mild. We hike through the towering, red rock canyon walls, pass through gaps and crevices and traverse open plateaus. The vistas are breathtaking, as is the hike, demanding many up’s and down’s along the way. K7After reaching the top plateau, we descend a wooden stairway, several hundred meters down into a canyon oasis lush with palms and a flowing creek. Following the boardwalk path, we reach a large swimming hole, rest upon the rocks and enjoy a snack of chocolate chip biscuits. John edges crab like around the sheer ledge of the swimming hole, sure footed and testing his climbing skills. I consider the possibility that he may slip and fall into the icy water; but know that this would only result in his embarrassment, not in injury, and I watch with pride and amusement.


Our out back adventure ends tonight and we have over 350 kilometers left to travel. Before starting the long drive back to Alice Springs, we stop for lunch and “fire up the Barbie.” “Mystery bags” and hamburgers are on this noon’s menu. I pass on the “mystery bags,” (sausages,) opting for an open faced cheese-burger piled high with grilled onions, peppers, and tomatoes.

Much of the trip back is in 4 wheel drive, along a well graded dirt road, a wide scar of red slicing through the sparse landscape. Australian oak trees and coolabah thrive in this flat, dry land. These oak trees look nothing like our California oaks; the young ones, narrow and torpedo shaped, have roots that shoot straight down many meters in search of ground water. Having reached water, the trees grow round in maturity. Low grasses and shrubs blanket the burnt orange landscape, the brush a varying pallet of dusty green, teal and olive. Tony spots a flock of black cockatoos in the distance and maneuvers our land cruiser and trailer up and over the raised dirt shoulder, navigating around the brush for us to get a closer look. The flock is absorbed in foraging for seeds on the ground and we get quite close. When they take flight, to the safety of a coolabahs grove, their tail feathers flair and we glimpse a brilliant splash of red.


Our final stop is at Jim’s place, another cattle station where we have the dubious honor of meeting, ________, the singing dingo. ______ is now in old, bad tempered and retired. We are warned to keep our distance. With our trip close to an end, I ask Elizabeth and David the appropriate amount to tip our guide, Tony. They inform me that tipping is not expected or appropriate and that he might feel embarrassed. If I wish to give him anything, they suggest a bottle of wine or small gift. I have brought a few sterling silver charms along with me and I discretely pull out a bearded dragon on a chain and tuck it in my pocket.


We arrive back at our Alice Springs hotel at 6:30 P.M. John and I are the first to be dropped at our hotel, All Season’s Oasis’. Our two bags are quickly off loaded and we say our awkward goodbyes. I thank Tony and hand him the silver bearded dragon charm. He looks a little confused, but I explain that I have made it and his features soften and he gives me a hug.


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